Evergreen Perennials

Clive Blazey talks about evergreen perennials in this extract from 'There Is No Excuse For Ugliness'.

Evergreen Perennials
Instead of a bush garden why not try evergreen perennials? Most Australian native perennials and shrubs have lower survival rates in the eastern states than plants from the Mediterranean.

Think of how tough lavender, rosemary, sage and thyme are. If you add echiums from the Canary Islands, salvia, cistus and flax, you can see there is a formidable list of plants used to 40°C heat and drought for months on end.

Many have adapted to extreme heat and drought by producing grey foliage like lavender, echium, lavender cotton and verbascum, succulent leaves and intriguing colours such as blue from Senecio or dark green from rosemary to survive the heat. They all have the great advantage of being outstanding foliage plants, not just for six months but even in winter (-4°C), which enables a gardener to create a rich tapestry with height, structure and colour that never looks tired after days of 40°C.

Unfortunately many Australia natives from the arid zones need poorer soils than most of our backyards offer. When they do grow well they require regular pruning and removal of dead branches. Most bush gardens that I visit have the major disadvantage of flowering in winter and spring leaving little of interest in summer and because they are survivors they create an arid, stressed look which is hardly consoling on a hot day.

I've seen stunning natural bush gardens within Cradle Mountain, the Victorian Alps and in Western Australia which put to shame any attempt at recreating the bush.

Choosing plants by shape and form

This does not mean that those who wish to plant some natives around them shouldn't but that they can widen their choices because there are far more plants that have adapted to dry, hot conditions from outside Australia than from within our coastline.

Our climate demands that we keep our thin soils covered to prevent topsoil loss. It is therefore logical to opt for permanent plantings, not broad expanses of annual bedding plants that devour water resources, need constant weeding and after a brief gaudy display leave soils exposed. Evergreen perennials hold their foliage for twelve months.

Evergreens that tolerate dry conditions are the obvious choices. They suppress weeds and, apart from the occasional clip over and mulch, need hardly any maintenance.

They are plants that revel in harsh conditions so they are less likely to be prone to pests and diseases.

There is a huge range of plants that can fit both our climate and our new mind-set; we need to look at them with new eyes. They can be moulded into a living sculpture where there is both drama and peace – even without flowers. Foliage, form and texture should be the focus. The repetition of a simple rounded shape can be dramatic when contrasted with some strong verticals in formal gardens.

Whatever your style, start to think of shapes first rather than flowers. Imagine different sizes of rounded shapes set off by a strong vertical, add some spiky or strong upright plants, blend some low tufts and contrast with some flat mat shaped plants. Don’t be seduced by visions of brilliant flowers.

 VERTICAL FORM - ECHIUM

VERTICAL FORM - ECHIUM

The next consideration is foliage texture and colour. Consider the difference between ballota, Euphorbia wulfenii, rosemary and lavender. Yes, they are all roughly the same rounded shape and size, yet their colours range from rich dark green to silver and smoky grey.

Blue chalk sticks and Hen and chickens may both be the same shape (mat forming) and the same colour (silver-grey) but their textures are quite different.
Chalk sticks are a mass of vertical foliage, whereas Hen and chickens is a conglomerate of crisp rosettes. By combining and contrasting foliage colour and texture we can start to use plants as pieces that will make up a many textured and coloured sculpture.

MAT FORM - CHALK STICKS

MAT FORM - CHALK STICKS

Plants of predominantly vertical shapes, be they hollyhocks at the small end of the scale, or pencil pines and lombardy poplars at the large end, always look most effective on sloping ground because they accentuate the slope. So whether you have a garden the size of a hillside in the Mediterranean or a sloping backyard in Australia, strong vertical shapes are ideal.

MOUNDING FORM - SANTOLINA

MOUNDING FORM - BOX

However using too many strong verticals can give a hectic and hemmed impression, rather than an uplifting one – like salt, they should be used sparingly. Conversely a preponderance of rounded shapes often seen in suburban gardens will make the garden feel heavy; like too much boring bland pasta, an unappealing stodgy mass.

AIRY FAIRY FORM - RUSSIAN SAGE

AIRY FAIRY FORM - RUSSIAN SAGE

Plants with no particular shape can blend the hard edges of strongly formed plants. These ‘airy fairies’ lend that touch of romance that no garden should be without. These ‘pretties’ produce airy heads of flower for months. Again they should be used with restraint as too many will feel like a formless mass of over sweet pudding.

EPHEMERAL FORM - MUSCARI

EPHEMERAL FORM - MUSCARI

SPIKY FORM - PENNISETUM
SPIKY FORM - PENNISETUM


The place for Ephemerals

In gardening as in life, getting the right balance is essential. So is the new ecologically sustainable garden just planted and left?

It can be, but that would mean missing out on all the ephemeral jewels that brighten each season, such as poppies and foxgloves. A few simple wildflowers can grow amongst permanent plantings to disappear before the hot summer.
They can self sow in gravel paths or pop up through loose ground covering mat-shaped plants. Hardy spring bulbs such as ixia, freesia, Muscari and Ipheion also have their place in the sun without displacing other plants.

The delicate beauty of nerines, rain lilies, Cyclamen hederifolium and C. coum brighten autumn and winter gardens. When summer is at its hottest, we can be astonished by the abrupt emergence of belladonna lilies rising triumphantly out of sunbaked soil.